The Kingdom of
Smiles
Bangkok, Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya, Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son and Krabi. Three weeks across the whole country: temples, mountains, jungle and islands.
See the itinerary →History, mountains, jungle and islands in one trip
Made for families, couples and friends who like a bit of adventure: temples and canals in Bangkok, the River Kwai and the ruins of Ayutthaya, the temples of Chiang Rai, trekking and homestays in the Karen mountains, elephants in the jungle, the misty roads of Mae Hong Son and, to finish, the islands of the Andaman Sea.
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Your itinerary
Landing in Bangkok
Your trip begins the moment you walk out of arrivals: we are waiting for you and drive you straight to the hotel, where the room is ready from 2:00 PM.
From there the day is yours. If the jet lag allows, a first walk around the block, a bowl of noodles at a street stall and an early night are the perfect way to land.
Bangkok by River and by Temple
We skip the traffic and take to the water: the public river boats carry us upstream to the flower district of Pak Khlong Talat, where jasmine garlands are strung by hand from dawn.
Then the big one: the Grand Palace, a whole walled city of gilded roofs built in 1782, with the Emerald Buddha at its heart. A short walk away, Wat Pho and its 46-metre reclining Buddha, and a two-minute ferry across the river to Wat Arun, best seen with the afternoon light on its porcelain spire.
We finish on a private long-tail boat, turning off the Chao Phraya into the old canals where wooden houses still sit with their feet in the water.
Two Markets, One Morning
West of the city, the Mae Klong Railway Market does its trick four times a day: awnings and baskets fold away in seconds, the train slides past centimetres from the tomatoes, and everything reopens as if nothing happened.
At Damnoen Saduak we swap the pavement for a boat and drift through the narrow canals of the floating market, haggling for fruit, hats and Thai masks from paddlers who have been doing this all their lives. Afterwards we head into the mangroves to see how the fishing families live and stop at a shellfish farm.
Back in Bangkok in the late afternoon, with the evening free before an early start tomorrow.
West to the River Kwai
An early departure from Bangkok towards Kanchanaburi, 128 km west, where the jungle closes in and the river takes over.
We begin at the Thailand–Burma Railway Centre, which tells the story of the Death Railway without dressing it up, and continue to the war cemetery, where around 6,000 Allied prisoners are buried, and to the Bridge over the River Kwai itself.
From the bridge station we board the historic Death Railway train and ride the most dramatic stretch of the line, crossing the original wooden viaduct built by the prisoners of war: the track clings to the cliff with the river directly below.
In the afternoon, Hellfire Pass and its memorial trail along the original cutting, hacked out of solid rock by hand. Then a long-tail boat from Phu Takien pier takes us to the floating bungalows, tied to the bank with nothing but water underneath.
Dinner on the river and, afterwards, a 45-minute Mon dance performance by the neighbouring village.
The Mon Village
You wake up on the water. After breakfast we visit the nearby Mon village, home to the same community for generations: the Golden Rock, the Buddha image cave and the village school, where the children are usually the ones giving the tour.
An easy jungle trail leads to a viewpoint over the River Kwai, with the whole valley opening up below.
The afternoon is free at the bungalows. You can swim straight off the deck, take a Thai massage on the water or simply watch the river go by until the light drops behind the hills. Second night on the river.
Erawan Falls, then East to Ayutthaya
We check out of the bungalows and drive north to Erawan National Park, named after the three-headed elephant of Hindu mythology: the rocks at the top tier are said to look like him.
The falls climb through the jungle in seven levels, each with its own pool. There is time to walk up as far as you feel like and to swim in the turquoise water, where small fish come straight up to you. The upper tiers are steeper and much quieter.
In the afternoon we cross central Thailand to Ayutthaya, the old capital of Siam, and check in there. If there is light left, the ruins at dusk are worth the short walk.
Ayutthaya
We start at the Bang Pa-In Royal Palace, the royal summer residence built in the 17th century and restored in the 19th, where Thai pavilions sit beside a neo-classical mansion and a Chinese throne hall in the same set of gardens.
Then we board a traditional boat and travel the last stretch to Ayutthaya by water, the way the city was always reached: stilt houses, rice barges heading down to Bangkok, and temple spires appearing above the trees.
In the afternoon, the temples themselves: Wat Mahathat and its Buddha head held in the roots of a banyan tree, Wat Phra Sri Sanphet with the three chedis of the old royal palace, and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon and its reclining Buddha. You walk the site at your own pace with an English audio guide.
We stay the night in Ayutthaya. If there is light left after the temples, the ruins at dusk are worth a last short walk.
Chiang Rai
After breakfast we drive from Ayutthaya down to Bangkok airport, a little over an hour, and take the flight to Chiang Rai: from the plains of the old capital to the mountains of the far north in one morning.
On arrival we transfer to the hotel, with time to settle in and enjoy its facilities, including the swimming pool.
From 5:00 PM onwards we can head to the night market, where you stroll at your own pace among food stalls, clothing, handicrafts and live music, soaking up the local atmosphere.
Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai
We visit the extraordinary Wat Rong Khun, the “White Temple”, a contemporary creation by one of Thailand’s most renowned artists, Chalermchai Kositpipat. Although it resembles a religious complex, its true purpose is artistic: its nine buildings house unique works of art, from meditating Buddha statues to pop culture icons, as well as murals illustrating the teachings of Theravada Buddhism.
We continue to Wat Rong Suea Ten, known as the “Blue Temple”, where we admire Buddha statues in meditation, mythological figures such as demons and nagas, and paintings depicting key moments from the life of Gautama Buddha.
We then head to Chiang Mai to visit the magnificent Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, 1,200 m above the valley, stopping on the way at the peaceful Wat Pha Lat.
Walking into Mae Wang
This morning the road climbs into the hills above Chiang Mai, to Mae Wang, and from there we continue on foot through Karen country.
The path follows a mountain stream before opening onto the region’s green rice terraces. Lunch is by a waterfall, with time for a swim. In the afternoon we keep walking along the ridge, pass through a Karen village and drop down to the fields where we are staying.
Tonight we are guests of a Karen family: dinner cooked at home, conversation, and the sound of the valley after dark.
A Day with the Elephants
After breakfast with our hosts and a walk around the village, we drive to the camp of a young Karen mahout who introduces us to his elephants and to the way his family lives with them. The first job is preparing their fruit.
Then we simply walk with them through the forest while they browse, with the guide explaining what they are doing and why — no shows, no riding. The morning ends at the river, watching them bathe.
In the afternoon, a gentle 40-minute descent of the Mae Wang river on a bamboo raft. Tonight we sleep at the camp itself, with the elephants a few metres away and the forest all around.
Doi Inthanon and the Rice Terraces
We leave the camp and head for Doi Inthanon National Park, home to the highest peak in Thailand. Up top, the Royal Twin Pagodas and viewpoints that open over the whole range, plus three of the park’s best waterfalls on the way: Mae Klang, Wachirathan and Sirithan.
If you feel like it, we can add a one-hour trek through the cloud forest, all moss, ferns and birdsong.
Late in the day we reach Baan Pa Pong Piang, a small village famous for its rice terraces: in the green season the whole valley turns into a stepped mosaic. We sleep in a traditional house among the paddies.
Karen Life in Mae Chaem
Deeper into the mountains, to a small Karen village in Mae Chaem, one of the least touristed corners of the country, where the day is measured by daylight and not much else.
In the afternoon we share ordinary life with the families: a walk through the gardens and plantations, learning what grows here and gathering vegetables for the evening. Then a traditional Karen cooking class, with recipes handed down through generations, and dinner together.
To close the day, the village schoolchildren perform a traditional Karen dance: music, costume and a lot of laughing.
A White Thread, and a Village on the Border
We wake surrounded by mountain silence. After a homemade breakfast, a local guide walks us 20 minutes to a hidden waterfall in the forest.
Before leaving, the village elders perform the Karen hand-tying ceremony, knotting a white thread around your wrist for protection and safe travels: one of the most moving traditions of this culture.
Then north, close to the Myanmar border, to Ban Rak Thai, founded by Yunnanese Chinese settlers: clay houses, tea plantations and a lake in the middle of it all. In the afternoon, a walk around the village, a boat out on the lake and tea grown on the slopes above.
Pai
After breakfast we continue to Pai, a small mountain town with a slow, creative streak to it. We stop first at Wat Phra That Mae Yen, up its long stairway, with the valley laid out below.
We cross the Kho Ku So bamboo bridge over the rice fields and take in the view from Yun Lai Viewpoint. The rest of the day is for the town itself: quiet corners, local artists, live music.
As it gets dark, the night market takes over the main street: some of the best street food in the north, eaten standing up.
Pai Canyon and a Day Off in Chiang Mai
We start back south, stopping at Pai Canyon for a short walk along its narrow red ridges: a last look at the landscapes of the north.
A relaxed stroll through Pai and a final coffee before the winding road down. We arrive in Chiang Mai in the afternoon.
The rest of the day is completely free: after a week on the road, this is the one to do nothing with. A massage, the hotel pool, the Sunday walking street if the timing works, or an early night before flying south.
South to the Andaman
A short transfer to Chiang Mai airport and a domestic flight to Krabi (around 2 h 05) takes us from mountains to sea in one morning.
Twenty minutes from the airport we reach Ao Nang and check in. The afternoon is free: the beach is a two-minute walk away and the limestone cliffs turn orange at sunset.
The Four Islands
A full day on the water around the four best-known islands of Krabi: white sand, clear shallows and limestone towers rising straight out of the sea.
We start at Phra Nang Beach, on the Railay peninsula, famous as much for its sand as for Phra Nang Cave, where fishermen still leave offerings before going out to sea.
Next comes Poda Island, all turquoise water and postcard rock, and then Chicken Island, named after its unmistakable silhouette, where we snorkel over coral full of tropical fish.
Last stop, Tup Island: at low tide a sandbank surfaces and you can walk from one island to the next in the middle of the sea.
A Free Day in Krabi
A day with nothing booked, to use as you like. Some ideas we always end up recommending:
Slow down in Ao Nang. The hotel, the nearby beaches and the seafront, with its cafés, massage shops and evening market.
The beach at dusk. Talk to the fishermen mooring their boats — now and then they take people out for traditional squid fishing.
Tubkaek Beach. Dinner or a drink at Mama Kitchen & Moon Bar, and a kayak at sunset with the Hong Islands on the horizon.
Emerald Pool and Thapom Klong Song Nam. A jade-green natural pool in the jungle, and a flooded forest you can paddle through between mangroves.
Railay by boat. Cliffs, hidden lagoons and short trails to viewpoints, twenty minutes from Ao Nang.
Wat Tham Suea. The Tiger Cave Temple: 1,200-odd steps, and the whole of Krabi laid out below you.
Back to Bangkok
The whole morning is free in Krabi: a last swim, the pool, a massage or a final walk along the seafront. No need to rush the packing.
In the afternoon we collect you for the flight back to Bangkok and take you to your hotel. One last evening in the capital: Chinatown, a rooftop, or whatever you still have on the list.
See You Soon, Thailand
Depending on your flight, there may still be time for one last temple, a market or a Thai massage before heading off.
Transfer to the airport for your departure — or tell us and we add a few more days and keep the trip going.
Trip details
Included
- ✓ Private trip
- ✓ Accommodation & daily breakfast
- ✓ Domestic flight Bangkok — Chiang Rai
- ✓ Domestic flights Chiang Mai — Krabi & Krabi — Bangkok
- ✓ Private airport & hotel transfers
- ✓ Vehicle with driver
- ✓ Local guides on the activities indicated
- ✓ Activities mentioned in the program
- ✓ Floating bungalows on the River Kwai (2 nights)
- ✓ Death Railway train ticket & Hellfire Pass
- ✓ Erawan National Park entrance
- ✓ Bang Pa-In Palace, river boat & Ayutthaya audio guide
- ✓ Chiang Rai: White Temple & Blue Temple
- ✓ Doi Inthanon National Park: transport & entrance
- ✓ Karen experience in Mae Chaem (cooking, dance & ceremony)
- ✓ Boat trip on the lake in Ban Rak Thai
- ✓ Meals mentioned in the program
- ✓ Local insurance, taxes & on-trip assistance
Extras included
- ✓ Hotels list and links
- ✓ Public transport tips
- ✓ Google Maps QR
- ✓ Local recipes
- ✓ Packing list
- ✓ Thai Music QR Playlist
- ✓ Fun facts & culture notes
- ✓ Emergency numbers
- ✓ Travel vocabulary
Not included
- ✕ International flights
- ✕ Meals and drinks not mentioned
- ✕ National Park fee on the 4 Islands tour
- ✕ International travel insurance
- ✕ Tips and personal expenses
- ✕ Services not explicitly mentioned
- ✕ Early check-in / late check-out
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Trip essentials
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Twenty-one days of culture, mountains, jungle and beach, shaped around your family or group.
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